My nephew turned thirty this month and is a food nut. He loves eating well and is skinny as a rail; a very thin rail. This is one of the things I dislike about him. When we travel together he loves to plan the trip around his meals. This is a trait I can easily love. He’d never been to Le Bernardin, so I took him and his boyfriend.

If you are not familiar with the restaurant, you are not a foodie. Owned by chef Eric Ripert, this temple to seafood, particularly fish, has received top ratings by Michelin and the New York Times for many years. Located at 155 West 51st Street in a modernist skyscraper, the interior is a warmed-up version of international style which feels appropriate for its location and building type. It’s not the most beautiful space, but I suspect the intention was to focus on the food and service, which is excellent.
I first went to Le Bernardin a decade ago with a friend. I remember enjoying the food, it’s updated classic French cooking, but mostly I remember falling in love with Billecarte Salmon Rose Champagne. It is heaven: not too sweet, not to dry, with subtle fruit flavors and endless tiny bubbles. Few restaurants stock it in North America and when they do I always order it. My association with Billecarte and Le Bernardin is beneficial for both, in my mind.
Upon greeting my guests in the restaurant’s lobby, a young woman quickly came up and assisted dressing me in a well-fitting sports coat to meet the dining room’s dress policy. It was all done quite elegantly, without attitude or reprimand, which is a sign of the superb service. I immediately ordered a bottle of Billecarte for our group while we waited for our table. It pleased me that I was introducing them to my favorite champagne as I was a decade ago.
The meal and service was excellent across the board with a few highlights: a sublime sea urchin risotto, the perfect cheese plate, and an extraordinary port. That being said, I left a bit disappointed. At $1,000 for three and the world’s top ratings, I want to be transformed; I want each course to move me. That was not the case. It must be tough to manage the guests’ expectations when they are so high.